How to Perform a “Burn Test”

We’ve all been there- you see a gorgeous fabric that you need to have. But is it real silk or just a very high quality synthetic? Or maybe someone gifted you a giant stash of old fabrics and you want to know what they are. Today we’re going to teach you a surefire way to find out the fiber context of fabrics- something every designer should know how to do!

Fabric Burn Test2 — Image: QuiltingMelodies.blogspot.com

Knowing and understanding fabric content is crucial. You don’t want to present a design claiming it to be 100% wool and find out afterwards it’s acrylic. It is also important to know if you dye your own textiles, as different dyes are made to work on different fabrics (for example, the kind of dye used for cotton or linen cannot be used on wool).

Most fabric sellers are very helpful and knowledgeable and will be able to tell you the exact fiber content if you request it. However, if you are ever in a situation where you are unsure, this test will be a big help. Simple swatch the fabrics you’re interested in and perform the tes before purchasing.

The Burn Test, is exactly what it sounds like. Though we can usually guess what something might be by looking or touch, it’s impossible to be completely sure. However, every fabric burns differently, giving away its contents with accuracy.

Here’s how to do it: if you are in a store or ordering online, request a sample. Cut a small piece, about a 1-inch square. Next, find a well-ventilated area such as your studio or kitchen. Place your sample on a non-flammable surface; a clean ashtray works well.

Next, take a lighter and VERY CAREFULLY burn your sample. As it burns, observe what’s happening- what color is the flame, how does it smell, Does it melt, etc. Several reactions may be happening at once, so you may have to do the test a few times or get a friend to watch with you in order to note everything.

Finally, take a look at the chart we’ve provided and see what matches up. Print it out and keep it in your studio as a reference!

Fabric	Class	Burning Characteristics	Odor	Residue
Cotton	Vegetable	Burns rapidly, clear flame, afterglow	Burning paper	Very little ash
Linen	Vegetable	Burns less rapidly than cotton	Burning paper	Light body ash in shape of cloth
Rayon	Semi-Synthetic	Burns less rapidly than cotton with slight melting, no afterglow	Burning paper	Soft black ash
Tencel	Vegetable	Continues burning after flame is removed, yellow flame	Burning wood	Grey ash
Silk	Animal	Burns slowly, shrinks from flame but does not melt	Burning hair or feathers	Small, brittle beads
Wool	Animal	Burns slowly, orange flame, shrinks from flame but does not melt	Burning hair or feathers	Large bead or ball, brittle, easily crushed
Nylon	Synthetic	Does not flame, seems to melt	Chemical odor	Hard bead, cannot be crushed
Acrylic	Synthetic	Flames and burns rapidly with hot, sputtering flame, black smoke	Fishy odor	Irregularly-shaped black bead
Polyester	Synthetic	Burns slowly, shrinks from flame giving off black smoke	Sweet chemical odor	Hard, cream-colored bead that becomes darker tan
Acetate	Synthetic	Flames and burns rapidly, double check by placing in nail polish remover- it will dissolve	Burning paper and hot vinegar	Hard, dark, solid bead